The Bulgari Octo plays with perceptions

The Bulgari Octo belongs to the trove of watchmaking icons (such as the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, the Ingénieur and the Omega Constellation) designed by the late Gérald Genta. He is considered the inventor of ”horological design” in contrast to the engineering blueprints of yore, which were simply edited by designers. He was also ”fascinated”, as it were, by octagons. We tested the new Octo on a steel bracelet for some weeks. It indeed pays tribute to the Genta legacy while giving it a new contemporary look. Our tests revealed a number of subtle and fascinating paradoxes that give the timepiece vigour and originality. Here is our verdict on a splendid and unusual timepiece.

Large format

Throughout the trial, the Octo played fast and free with our perception of it and the perception of others, as would a brilliant illusionist. The first paradox arises from its size. The watch technically measures 41.5 millimetres in diameter, which fits in with current trends and corresponds to the soldier shot. The surprise came when we put it on: it measures 47.4 millimetres in length from lug to lug, much longer than imagined! Hence, this beautiful watch switches from an habitual format to  a larger, imposing one. This unexpected demonstration of power does have an impact and it will surprise and seduce the beholder, or it will have no effect whatsoever. The second paradox lies in its morphology. In fact, it can fit a smaller wrist as well and will therefore appeal to women who like large timepieces.

But what’s most remarkable is how the Bulgari Octo hugs the wrist so perfectly. Were it not for its size, one might not even notice it. In fact, it could easily pass for a revolutionary men’s cuff link rather than a watch. And here comes the third paradox: could the Octo be considered a piece of jewellery? In any case, this argument, which often appears in promotional rhetoric, has found its perfect embodiment in the Octo. Indeed, the bracelet and the watch itself are in perfect harmony with one another on many levels, not only where the integration of the two parts is concerned.

There are many correlations. For instance, the somewhat coarse appearance with high-end finishings, the many facets, the above-average thickness, which is nevertheless always proportionate. The bracelet is also of uncommon width, which strengthens the feeling of harmony.

The association with the world of jewellery goes beyond what we mentioned above. The bracelet is so fluid and supple that it reacts to the slightest movement.This is perfect, considering the challenge in making bracelets pleasant to wear their presence is forgotten. We could even add, without exaggeration, that the bracelet seems alive, as if it were one of those reptiles that slithers and curls in order to move. This may be a coincidence, but it is a happy one anyway since it could be a new addition to the legendary, feminine Bulgari Serpenti collection. In the Octo, though, the rings were substituted by bevelled links polished at the centre, ensuring beautiful and regular cascade of flashes.

Basic geometry

The octagonal shape and the number eight symbolically embody the perfect fusion between two basic geometrical shapes: the square and the circle. In other words, it solves the unsolvable and ancient geometrical problem of squaring the circle. Besides, the octagonal shape is an aspect of many religions.

For example, Islam and Christianity consider the octagon to be a sacred shape, evoking regeneration or resurrection. The Octo by Bulgari explores this theme with a round, bevelled bezel above an octagonal flange and case. That is where we find the fourth paradox: the mix of straight lines and circles creates an effect of controlled tension. The eye constantly tries to make sense of this shrewdly calculated geometry. This interplay of shapes is once more highlighted by the contrasts between polished and satiny surfaces. Altogether, the case features 110 facets. This record number is sometimes seen as a drawback, because some feel it is excessive and heavy. This Octo’s detractors argue that trying to create a size to be shown in fact turned into another challenge: inventing a case that had the maximum number of surfaces. However, it is not by chance that the Bulgari Octo is so controversial. Those features that some dislike are precisely those that make others like the watch.

Jet black

The test model of the watch has an ink-black dial produced with several layers of polished lacquer painted over one another. The dial also features diamond index batons and a date aperture.

Some criticise the small size of this aperture. It’s a point that can be debated, since is the date is quite readable does not undermine the architectural purity of the whole construction. The thickness of the aperture perfectly corresponds to that of the hour hand, a correlation that invigorates the spirit exuded by the Octo. As for the hands, which look like skeletonised and beveled obelisks, they evoke antiquity.

The Octo is equipped with the in-house self-winding mechanical BVL 193 movement with a unidirectional oscillating weight. It displays hours, minutes, sweep seconds and the date. The calibre, visible through a sapphire crystal on the back, is driven by a double barrel. The finishings, including perlage,  satin-brushing and côtes de Genève, make it well worth the 8,900 Swiss francs (around 6000 Euro) charged in Switzerland. An aggressive price if you consider the quality and legitimacy of the product, which fits naturally into the magnificent Bulgari repertoire. The Octo is thus meant for those men or women who dare to be classic and chic as well as paradoxical.