Bulgari Octo Velocissimo: sheer coherence

There is such a thing as an Italian style. As with the British, who are always able to add a little “Britishness” to their watches, Italian designers, like those defenders of Bulgari 's esthetic values, always manage to imbue their creations with an ethereal Italian je ne sais quoi. Their perfectly rounded timepieces boast a touch of voluptuousness in the elegance, a refined equilibrium allied with Swiss meticulousness and what could be called “mechanical values.” Admittedly, relying on a universal and ancient geometric figure like the octagon might seem a little facile.

However, taking the mere combination of a square and a circle even further was another thing altogether. These two primeval shapes were a great source of inspiration for many ancient civilizations in the west and east and passing by Asia, where they are also frequently found in architectural remains.

Instrument before style

The chronograph version of the Octo adds urbanity to the timepiece's  self-confident masculinity (already covered in “Octo, Roman power” by Louis Nardin on our website). At first glance, the watch exhibits all the external features of the classic watchmaking tradition with modern touches. Its face is identifiable as a mechanical chronograph.  Nevertheless, a closer look reveals that the three subdials are set in a V, the minutes at 3 o’clock, the hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and the seconds at 9 o’clock. The sweep chrono hand ticks off a perimeter that also includes the date aperture, which jumps out at 4:30.

This harmony in the positioning of the indications serves to highlight the deep black hand-polished lacquered dial, and the watch's many angles, like the 110 facets that juxtapose polished polished surfaces with the satin-brushed finishing of its 41.4-millimeter case available in either 18-karat pink gold or steel. At any rate, this ace of the Octo collection comes with an alligator strap or, sportier yet, an original steel bracelet. For the record, the reflections of light and our perception of its proportions differ according to the choice of material, that is, pink gold or steel.

Running this charismatic chronograph – a utilitarian instrument with very racy lines –  is the self-winding Velocissimo caliber with column-wheel control. This micromechanical system is equipped with a silicon escapement that beats at a fast 36,000 vibrations per hour while supplying a 50-hour power reserve. The efficient functioning of this 30 millimeter, 6.62-millimeter-high caliber depends on 31 shock-absorbing rubies. The gear train can be seen through a sapphire crystal on the back. Such a profusion of technicality reminds us that this great Italian brand, traditionally considered a jewelry firm primarily, is indeed a proper manufacture.

Traversing the trends

Bulgari is a brand rich in true human and family history. With the reintroduction of the Octo collection in 2012, the brand finally seems to have found a model that can display its most subtle values. Esthetically, the piece has a feeling of timelessness about it and always features the brand’s signature shapes, irrespective of the model. Is it possible, then, that the next novelty will be the release of a smaller Octo Lady? In any case, the watch would not be at all strange, since the inherent balance of its shape seems immune to any character erosion.

Opinion: models that became iconic

The idea that a timepiece can survive trends and eras and prevail in the long term is both traumatizing and stimulating for a brand. But it remains the Holy Grail as well. All watchmaking companies are aware of Rolex’s “Oyster,” Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso,” or Audemars Piguet’s “Royal Oak”. In the end, the fact remains that in this race for the iconic watch, many are called, few are chosen. With its Octo, Bulgari is naturally on the verge of gaining access to this rare prerogative. Will time be on the brand's side? It looks like it.